The made to measure suit and ist construction
The three aspects
In a good tailored suit, the three aspects of fit, fabric and construction play an important role. Above all, the factor construction is often neglected. However, those who have already entered the world of tailor-made menswear know that the decision on the construction of the tailored suit is at least as important as the choice of the outer fabric.
Differences in construction
Suits usually have a lapel and front panel insert that provides the necessary support and stability for a perfect look. At Monokel Berlin we use contemporary lightweight inserts consisting of cotton, linen and horsehair. There are basically three different construction varieties: Full-Canvas, Half-Canvas and Fused.
At Monokel Berlin we offer only the highest quality types of construction, that would be & nbsp;Full-Canvas und Half-Canvas,. Whether in Berlin, Munich or Riga in our stores you will always find the same selection.
With the full-canvas custom-made suit, the complete insole is sewn and not glued. The insert gets extra leeway and adapts itself to the shape of the body when worn.
Die genähte Konstruktion erlaubt dem Anzug, zu atmen. Durch den Verzicht auf Klebstoff gewinnt der Anzug an Langlebigkeit – insbesondere, wenn er oft getragen wird.
Full-Canvas ist die qualitativ hochwertigste Lösung, die jeden Tag aufs Neue spürbar ist. Für regelmäßige Anzugträger definitiv die beste Wahl.
With the cheaper way of manufacturing, the insert is glued to the front part of the fabric which makes it less flexible and gives it less wearing comfort. .
The half-canvas suit combines the benefits of the lower priced fused version with the high-quality full-canvas construction and is the least that we manufacture here at Monokel Berlin.
With the half-canvas suit only half of the inlay is sewn into the fabric. Specifically these are the shoulder and breast areas. The suit hereby also gains a significant degree of flexibility to be able to adapt to the shape of your body. As these are the most important parts of a perfect fitting suit, one can feel a significant difference to the fused variation.
Half canvas is a great option for all those who are newcomers in the dimension of tailored suits or for those with a smaller budget who do not want to miss the wearing comfort or longevity of a suit.
Fused / Glued inserts
Fused means that the suits inlay is bonded with the fabric with textile glue. This is the easiest and quickest method, which also makes it the most reasonable priced version of production. One can generally assume that most suits “off the rack” are based on fused production.
At Monokel Berlin we do not manufacture any fused suits out of quality reasons.
Fixation of the insert
Our tailor-made suits are reinforced with a light insole made of horsehair, cotton and linen to give the jacket the necessary durability in front and lapel. These three layers are sewn with a buffing machine and fixed by seam to the outer fabric.