Anatomy of a suit jacket

Three Aspects

There are three main points to look at in a good suit: fit, fabric and the jacket’s construction. Most people tend to forget about the last point. The one’s who already entered the world of tailormade menswear know how important each of these elements is.

Full-Canvas Suit

Full Canvas einlage auf Dunkelblauem Nadelstreifenanzug mit roter Krawatte maßgeschneidert bei Monokel Berlin

Half-Canvas Suit

Half Canvas Einlage auf Dunkelblauem Nadelstreifenanzug mit dunkelgrüner Krawatte Maßgeschneidert bei Monokel Berlin

Differences in Construction

Usually suits are featuring a stitched (or fused) canvas in lapel, and front part of the jacket.

At Monokel Berlin we are offering Full-Canvas and Half-Canvas suits. We do not offer Fused suits.


With a full-canvas suit, the suits inlay is not glued, but completely sewn in. This has the effect that the inlay has a certain degree of flexibility, and, while being worn, can better adapt to the shape of the body.

The sewn variation allows the suit to breathe. By waiving the use of glue, the suit gains longevity, especially when worn often. Full-canvas is the highest quality solution, which you can feel every single day. For those who wear suits daily, this is definitely the best choice.

Cheap suits off the peg most often get fused. This is cheaper but less comfortable for wearing it.


The half-canvas suit combines the benefits of the lower priced fused version with the high-quality full-canvas construction.

With the half-canvas suit only half of the inlay is sewn into the fabric. Specifically these are the shoulder and breast areas. The suit hereby also gains a significant degree of flexibility to be able to adapt to the shape of your body. As these are the most important parts of a perfect fitting suit, one can feel a significant difference to the fused variation.

Half canvas is a great option for all those who are newcomers in the dimension of tailored suits or for those with a smaller budget who do not want miss the wearing comfort or longevity of a suit.


Fused means that the suits inlay is bonded with the fabric with textile glue. This is the easiest and quickest method, which also makes it the most reasonable priced version of production. One can generally assume that most suits “off the rack” are based on fused production.
The “fused suit” is perfect for somebody who only needs it for a single occasion or who doesn’t wear it a lot anyway.

We don’t do fused suits.

Halbfertiges Schnittteil mit Canvaseinlage in Nahaufnahme mit Schneidernähten von Monokel Berlin

Canvas stitching

Our made-to-measure suit features a light canvas made of cotton, linen and horse hair. It adds structure to the front part of your jacket. The canvas can be fully stitched by machine or by hand.

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